An inland road trip
The hilly heart of Bilbao Biscay surprises everyone because of the richness and variety of its rural landscapes and natural parks
Hundred-year-old beech forests, craggy rock walls that rise among pastures, summits steeped in legend, and towns seemingly frozen in time are just a few examples of what the Biscayan inland regions have to offer
The interior of Bilbao Biscay, dominated by mountains that alternate with valleys carpeted in lush green grass, still beats to the natural rhythm of rural life. Its settings and hidden corners, a short road trip away from the Biscayan capital, are ideal for outdoor recreation.
Having departed from Bilbao, our first stop is made in Durango, a medieval town nestled among mountains, located in the geographical centre of the province, which is also the entrance to the inland valleys and peaks of Bilbao Biscay. To fully appreciate the town’s medieval charm, you should enter the historic centre through the Arch of Santa Ana, the gateway that gave access to Durango when it was protected by walls. Once inside, you should not miss the opportunity to see the Renaissance Lariz Tower and the Town Hall, with its colourful façade; wander the old town’s narrow streets; and drop into the Basilica of Santa María de Uribarri to see its imposing portico. The Kurutzesantu Museum is also worth visiting if you want to admire the Gothic Kurutziaga Cross and find out more about the town’s history and personality.
From Durango, the trip continues in the direction of Elorrio. It is highly recommended to make a detour before getting there and take a peaceful walk along the Arrazola Greenway, a path that runs among the gentle landscapes of rural Biscay in the shadow of Mount Anboto following a former mining railway line. For those who feel like going the extra mile, at the end of the greenway they can start their ascent to Betsaide and get to the point at which the three Basque provinces meet to feast their eyes on its impressive views.
Once we arrive in Elorrio, the best thing to do is go with the flow and enjoy the town’s incredibly rich heritage, alive in the medieval palaces and houses with family crests on their facades, in the arresting Basilica of the Purísima Concepción, or in the Monastery of Santa Ana. For those in love, the romantic gardens of the stately homes, the Fuente del Amor (Love Fountain), and the Mendraka swing are definitely must-visit attractions. A few minutes away from the historic centre, you can also find one of the most mysterious corners in Biscay, the Necropolis of Argiñeta, a set of medieval funerary monuments nestled in a magical natural setting.
On our way back to Durango, our next destination is Urkiola Natural Park, a stunning natural ecosystem made of pastures, woods, and rocky summits where over 137 animal species have their home. What’s more, according to legend, some of the most popular mythical creatures from our culture are also meant to live here. This is the case of Mari, our mother goddess, who is believed to dwell in a cave hidden in Mount Anboto during most part of the year. The Sanctuary of the Santos Antonios (dedicated to St Anthony the Great and St Anthony of Padua) has its own legends too, such as the one which has it that walking round the rock at the entrance several times will help you find a partner.
To keep breathing the pure mountain air, we head to the Arratia Valley, which stretches from Urkiola to another legendary Biscayan peak: Mt Gorbeia. After crossing the historic town of Igorre, an ideal stop to stretch your legs and admire beautiful architecture, we get to Areatza, one of the entry points to Gorbeia Natural Park. Apart from preserving an interesting artistic heritage, the place is home to Parketxe, an interpretive centre that helps visitors better understand this nature reserve, which is also the largest in the Basque Country.
The easiest way to walk to the Gorbeia Cross–on the summit of the highest mountain in Biscay, at a height of 1,842 metres–is to park your car at the Pagomakurre recreation area and start the ascent from there. The views from the top will leave you breathless. Mount Gorbeia and its surroundings are not only perfect for hiking, but also for exploring enchanting places like Otzarreta Beech Forest or discovering the peacefulness and the rich heritage of nice inland towns like Otxandio or Dima.
Information about accessibility: Gorbeia
Afterwards our trip takes us to Orduña, a piece of Biscayan territory located in between Alava and Burgos. This idyllic rural area is dotted with lovely hamlets, and it accommodates the largest medieval square in the Basque Country and a noteworthy historic centre packed with palaces and churches–all of them witnesses to the importance the only municipality of Biscay categorised as a ‘city’ had for centuries.
Surrounding Orduña, Sierra Salvada hides one of the greatest natural spectacles in Biscay: the Salto del Nervión. Before broadening into the mighty Estuary that gives Bilbao its unique character, the River Nervión has here a fall of 270 metres that results in the highest waterfall in the Iberian Peninsula. The panoramic views over this horsetail waterfall are absolutely breathtaking, especially during rainy seasons.
It is time now to head north again after such an exciting trip, but on our way back to Bilbao, we decide to pay a visit to Gordexola. Here, we can see the eye-catching houses built by the Indianos on their return from America–where they had made their fortunes–and discover the ironworks in which, back in the day, the iron ore extracted from the mines in the proximity was transformed and given shape.

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