Portugalete, a town with views over the Estuary
The Estuary has been key to the development of Portugalete since the moment the so called ‘Villa Jarrillera’ was founded in a small fishing village 700 years ago, having borne witness to both the town’s commercial and maritime past and its industrial splendour.
Featuring two World Heritage Sites–the Vizcaya Bridge and the Northern Rute of the Jacobean pilgrimage–, Portugalete has an impressive cultural heritage that includes medieval towers, emblazoned palaces, Gothic basilicas, remarkable pieces of iron engineering, and excellent examples of 19th-century bourgeois architecture.
Seven centuries have passed since the town of Portugalete was founded in 1322, with the aim of giving rights and privileges of marine commerce and transportation to the inhabitants of the area. During the 14th and 15th centuries, Portugalete thrived as one of the mayor ports in Bilbao Biscay and, in the 19th century, it became the favourite summer destination for the bourgeoise of the region.
A few minutes from Bilbao by underground, the town–known as ‘Villa Jarrillera’ due to the small jars in which the txakoli wine produced in the region was served–is full of places that are waiting to be discovered:
The Vizcaya Bridge. The symbol of Portugalete and Biscay, also known as Puente Colgante, is one of the best examples of the iron architectural style characteristic of the Industrial Revolution. Built in 1887, this was the first transborder bridge in the world. The Vizcaya Bridge made it possible for both people and vehicles to travel between Portugalete and Getxo without blocking the boat traffic that went up and down the Estuary of Bilbao. It was not only a technical and aesthetically pleasant solution, but also a very innovative construction for its time. This iron giant, which received the World Heritage status in 2006, continues fulfilling its purpose and it now gives visitors the chance to walk along its 60-metre-high platform.
Information about accessibility: Bizkaia Bridge
The Esplanade. Portugalete stretches along the Banks of the Estuary for approximately two kilometres that could be divided into three parts. In the Muelle Viejo, the oldest part of the quay, we can see how the boats unload their catch every morning. Right next to it, we find the Muelle Churruca, adorned with all the elegant and stately buildings that were raised to accommodate the tourists who came to the town for a bath in the sea in the 19th century: the magnificent houses of Zunzunegui, Olaso, Palacios, Balparda, Vicuña, and Gandarias. The Muelle Churruca give also access to the Bizkaia Bridge on the left bank of the Estuary. The last part of the quay is called Muelle de Hierro.
Muelle de Hierro. Portugalete treasures an important iron architecture construction: the 800 metres of quay designed by Evaristo Churruca. The quay contributed to the safety of the sailing in the Estuary of Bilbao since, before it was built in 1881, a sandbar used to be formed at the mouth causing many boats to sink and other accidents. Starting at the mareograph, a device used for measuring the depth of the water, the Muelle de Hierro offers spectacular views over the Bizkaia Bridge and the Bilbao Abra Bay.
Plaza del Solar. Located between Portugalete’s old town and the quay, this lovely square is a popular meeting place for local people. The Town Hall, a plain Neoclassical building erected in 1883, and the sculpture that pays tribute to Víctor Chávarri, an industrialist pioneer and the founder of one of the companies that would later start the renowned Altos Hornos de Vizcaya, can be found here. Surrounded by trees, the town’s popular Bandstand–built in 1912–is the place chosen by its inhabitants to hold celebrations and dances. People still continue going to Plaza del Solar to get locally grown products and flowers thanks to the ‘Mercado de las aldeanas’, a market that takes place every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday throughout the year.
The Old Town. Running downhill and ending at the Estuary, three medieval roads show you the history of Portugalete. Coscojales, Víctor Chávarri (popularly known as the street in the middle), and Santa María, are the names of these streets, which are awash with small squares and Classical, Renaissance and Baroque palaces that once belonged to the most prominent families in the town. The bars that fill the steep streets of the old town are great places for what we call poteo, where we can drink and eat those delicious pintxos that make our cuisine so famous and special.
The Basilica of Santa María. A church dedicated to the Virgin Mary was built at the highest point of the medieval village. With the years, this church has been gradually transformed into the spectacular Gothic Basilica we can admire today near the Northern Jacobean Route. Inside the basilica, a statue of the Virgin Mary–worshipped by local sailors and fishermen–presides the polychrome altarpiece, and some of its chapels are dedicated to well-off families from Portugalete. On the outside, we can see its distinctive flying-buttresses and gargoyles–characteristic of the late Gothic period–and appreciate the Renaissance influence on its portals. From the church, we can also admire the panoramic views of the Vizcaya Bridge, the Estuary, and the surrounding towns.
Salazar Tower. A typical example of the tower-houses that belonged to the most prominent lineages in medieval Biscay, the Salazar Tower, stands between the Old Town and the Basilica of Santa María. Due to its privileged position over the Estuary at the former entrance of the town, this tower allowed one of the most powerful families in the history of Biscay to control the movement of goods as the boats went towards the harbour. This magnificent quadrangular edifice, made of dimension stone, has had different usages along its history, serving as a defensive fortress and as an aristocratic residence. Currently, the tower houses a museum and a restaurant.
RIALIA-Industry Museum. The iron ore extracted from the nearby mines at Gallarta and La Arboleda brought about the industrialization of Bilbao, the Left Bank, and Portugalete. The Estuary and the people who worked in the industrial companies that emerged on its banks were the main protagonists of this historical moment. RIALIA-Industry Museum has gathered all these testimonies to show the industrial heritage of the region through a collection of items (paintings, tools, and other objects) related to the main metallurgy industries of Biscay. The museum offers a truly interesting trip to the 20th-century industrial past.
Traditional festivals. Popular festivals in Portugalete are deeply rooted in tradition. The San Roque festivals, for instance, have been celebrated on August 14th for centuries. On the 15th, the Diana Portugaluja takes the music to the streets to pay homage to the Virgin Mary and thousands of people parade and sing along, which is followed by a bowl of tasty garlic soup. The Virgen de la Guía festivities, on July 1st, commemorate the seafaring origin of the town. After two cloth dolls called Dominguines are hoisted on one of the streets and the floral offering has finished, the festival atmosphere can be felt all over the town until the Gran Bajada, when the statue of the Virgin is carried down Calle Coscojales. Another important day in the calendar of Portugalete is San Nicolás, a celebration organised by the Cofradía de Mareantes y Navegantes de San Nicolás y San Telmo during the month of September. Boat races, greasy pole contests, and meals in the street are also organised and the music does not stop until the Colás is burnt.
Making the most of the Estuary. The Paseo de la Canilla, home to a former train station that now houses the Portugalete Tourist Information Centre, is a leisure area on the left bank of the Estuary where you can enjoy a walk and admire the impressive panoramic view of the Vizcaya Bridge. It is also a great place to watch the trainera competitions that are held in the summer, and a point of departure for the boat trips that allow you to enjoy the historical heritage of both banks. Finally, there is a pleasurable walk that takes us from the Muelle Churruca to the nearest town of Santurtzi, the sardine-fishing capital of Biscay.
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