Markina-Xemein, Lea Artibai’s inland gem
At a crossroads between the sea and the mountains, Markina-Xemein has one of the richest cultural heritages in Biscay
By the town’s core, with its characteristic medieval towers and Baroque palaces, you can see the largest church in the Basque Country, a curious chapel hiding a geological oddity, and one of the most prestigious Basque pelota courts. Apart from all that, the town is crossed by paths thousands of years old that have been used by merchants and pilgrims of all times
The Jacobean Northern Way, the same as prehistoric people or even the Romans once did, enters Biscay through Markina-Xemein, a western town that is made up of two urban nuclei: the village of Markina, founded by infante Don Tello in 1355 and located right on the border with Gipuzkoa; and the elizate of Xemein.
It is noteworthy that Markina-Xemein, one of the most prominent towns in Lea Artibai, still preserves the original layout of its once walled historic core, which was designed around three main streets–Guen Kalea, Erdiko Kalea and Okerra–crossed by a fourth one–Zear Kalea. The town eventually grew outside its walls and, over the centuries, important palaces and towers were built around it. Today, their existence serves to reminds us of the town’s historical importance.
The following places are just but a sample of the many imposing historic buildings you can admire in this town: the Mugartegi or Solartekua Palace, located where the medieval gateway used to be and currently used as the town hall; the Bidarte Tower and the Murga Palace, which illustrate the perfect combination between a fortified tower, a residential palace and a garden; the Ansotegi Palace, an old tower house transformed into a palace that maintains its original facade on Guen Kalea street; the Antxia Tower or Ibarra, whose original sturdy tower can still be distinguished at its rear; the old Casa Consistorial with its portico; the Casa Ubilla; the Baroque Andonegi Palace, which displays coats of arms on its facade; the Patrokua Palace; the fortified Barroeta Tower; the Artibai Tower, the Casa Orueta; and the Ugarte Tower.
The churches and chapels in Markina-Xemein also reflect the town’s historical splendour. The Chapel of San Miguel de Arretxinaga, which lies next to the two rivers that shape the valley, is probably the most outstanding of them. In the middle of this hexagonal chapel, there is an unusual altar formed by three huge rocks. This natural geological formation is surrounded by legends, such as the one that claims that those who pass under the rocks without touching them three consecutive times will manage to find a partner in less than a year. Another curious fact about this place is that, in the Middle Ages, it was occupied by a religious military order called the Freilas.
The Church of Xemein, the largest church in the Basque Country, is equally spectacular. Erected in the 16th century in Basque gothic style, the building houses a striking Renaissance altarpiece. Adjacent to its chapel is the graveyard, a singular example of Neoclassical burial place, laid out around a porticoed yard and decorated with Neo-Grec and Neo-Egyptian elements.
Another essential place for the locals in Markina-Xemein is their pelota court or frontón, one of the most well-known in Biscay–so much so that it is known as ‘The University of Pelota’ due to the large amount of professional (mainly jai alai) players that have sprung up from here. This frontón gives you the chance to experience the excitement felt during jai alai games, one of our most cherished and deep-rooted popular sports. Those who have the courage to give the game can do it on one of the town’s guided tours, though emulating professional players, whose shots can reach speeds of up to 300 kilometres per hour, is not an easy task.
Markina-Xemein is not only a highly recommended stop on the Jacobean Norther Way to Santiago but also a great stopover point on the Wine and Fish Route, a road already followed in the Middle Ages and along which muleteers headed towards the interior of the Iberian Peninsula to trade the fish caught in coastal towns for products such as wheat, salt, vinegar or wine. It is precisely in Ziortza-Bolivar, a town near Markina, that the route is split into two roads that lead to the coastal towns of Ondarroa and Lekeitio respectively. Another beautiful path you can take there is the Sendero del Urko, which will guide you through beautiful natural landscapes as it runs parallel to the stream of the same name alongside watermills, ancient walls, and abandoned ironworks.
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