San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, castillo de roca sobre el mar

The shrine is not easily accessed, but the road is worth the while, as it shows some of the most breathtaking landscapes in the beautiful rough coast of Bizkaia. When you reach the belfry at the top, ring the bell three times to ward evil spirits off.

San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is connected to the mainland by a stone bridge and a stretch of land forming two arches. At a point, the bridge turns into a zigzagging narrow 241-step footbridge leading to the top of the rock, where the picturesque shrine stands. There is the belfry with its popular bell. Legend has it that once in Bermeo, St John reached the shrine in three strides, the last of which, on the final step, is still marked by his footprint. Touch it for good luck!

In addition to being a place of great beauty, San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is very popular with arrantzales (Basque word for fishermen). Inside the shrine, there are votive offerings from sailors saved from shipwreck, scale models of boats and paintings of ships close to wrecking. Even today, most tuna fishing boats in Bermeo dodge to port or starboard to get protection from the saint in the open sea.

Already popular enough with tourists, San Juan de Gaztelugatxe became a site of pilgrimage among Game of Thrones fans after featuring in the HBO series (2011-present) as Dragonstone, the location from which character-favourite Daenerys Targaryen has been plotting war against her enemies. In the show, the shrine is no longer on the islet; instead, there is a fantastic castle. But the stunning setting is perfect for the Mother of Dragons: the meandering shoreline, the narrow footbridge to the top, the rock that delves into the sea… Fantasyland on Earth.

A little history

The shrine standing on the rock today is not the original temple. The target of battles and fires alike, the church has been built and rebuilt throughout the centuries. Historians believe that the first version was built in the ninth century by the Knights Templar. In the twelfth century, it was turned into a convent. The last rehabilitation dates back to 1983, following a fire.

Given its strategic location on the coast, Gaztelugatxe was used defensively as well. In the fourteenth century, it was one of the strongholds of resistance of the Lord of Bizkaia against the attacks of King Alfonso XI of Castile.

In 1596, Gaztelugatxe was under attack from Francis Drake and his company of privateers. They plundered the area, taking everything they could and killing the shrine’s keeper by throwing him into the sea. During the Spanish Civil War, it was the site of the infamous battle of Cape Matxitxako.

In 1963, a statue of Our Lady of Begoña, the Patroness of Bizkaia, was taken underwater in the vicinity of Gaztelugatxe, for sailors and locals to make flower offerings to Her.

Routes

It takes about 75 minutes to get to San Juan de Gaztelugatxe and back, on a 3km hike. Given the lack of stability in the area, it is no longer possible to reach the bridge by car: Now you have to walk all the way down the hill. There are three car parks by the old road, for visitors to leave their vehicles there and walk down the slope. But do not panic! The hike should not deter you from visiting this wonderful place.

A featured location in Game of Thrones, San Juan de Gaztelugatxe has become a major tourist attraction at the global level

There are two ways of reaching San Juan de Gaztelugatxe on foot. The first route is shorter but sharper, starting at the Eneperi restaurant and going downhill along asphalt and dirt paths. It is peppered with benches where you can take a break.

The second, longer, route, is paved from beginning to end and includes a viewpointfrom which to soak in the whole landscape.

In an effort to protect the local marine and terrestrial ecosystems, Gaztelugatxe was  designated as a Protected Biotope in 1998 and a Special Area of Conservation (SAC) in2013.

Visitors are strongly advised to respect the wildlife and mind their own waste.