Un paseo por la marinera Lekeitio con Itziar Ituño
La actriz de ‘La casa de papel’ nos acompaña en un recorrido por este pueblo volcado al mar
La esencia de los antiguos arrantzales –pescadores en euskera– que vivieron en este pueblo de la comarca de Lea Artibai aún pervive en sus animadas calles y en su puerto.
Una de las cosas que más le gustan de Lekeitio a Itziar Ituño, la famosa ‘Lisboa’ de ‘La casa de papel’, es la huella que dejaron en la localidad los navegantes, balleneros, aventureros, comerciantes, artesanos e incluso miembros de la realeza que han pasado por ella.
Todas estas personas dejaron su huella en Lekeitio –pronunciado ‘Lekitto’ por los lugareños–, y especialmente en su casco histórico, salpicado de un rico patrimonio artístico, entre el que sobresale la preciosa basílica de la Asunción de Santa María, uno de los monumentos religiosos más destacados de Bizkaia, y en cuyo interior es digno de admiración el retablo gótico del altar mayor, el tercero de la península por tamaño. Además, paseando entre las coloridas calles de Lekeitio aún se ven los restos de las antiguas murallas medievales, el Convento de Santo Domingo, los blasones de los palacios urbanos renacentistas y barrocos, la casa consistorial, y la Antigua Cofradía, corazón comercial de un pueblo ligado al mar.
Una visita a Lekeitio también es una fantástica oportunidad para descubrir nuestra gastronomía y, sobre todo, para probar los platos hechos con los frutos del mar recién llegados desde los barcos a las cocinas de los restaurantes y asadores. Disfrutar de un buen plato a base de bacalao o de sardinas, de bonito del norte o de anchoas, en alguna de las terrazas frente al mar es una experiencia única. Y lo es más si se acompañan con un buen txakoli, un vino joven que se elabora cerca del mar y que marida a las mil maravillas con el marisco y el pescado. En los bares del casco antiguo, además, siempre hay un buen surtido de pintxos, esas pequeñas joyas de nuestra cocina que acompañan el tradicional ‘poteo’.
Frente a la desembocadura del río Lea, uno de los rincones más especiales de Lekeitio es la isla de Garraitz, también conocida como isla de San Nicolás por una ermita ya desaparecida que se erigió con esa advocación. Está separada de la costa por solo unos pocos metros, pero únicamente se puede acceder a ella caminando cuando la marea está baja para disfrutar de sus impresionantes vistas sobre el mar abierto. Antaño albergó un convento y parece ser que en las épocas de epidemias como las de la peste se utilizaba para albergar a las personas infectadas.
La isla está frente a la tranquila playa de Isuntza, muy cerca del puerto y del casco antiguo, ideal para disfrutar con la familia. Entre la arena de esta playa asoma una piedra de color negro conocida como ‘Aitxitxa Makurra’, el abuelo encorvado. Según la leyenda, la Muerte salvó de morir al capitán de un barco a cambio de que se dedicase a curar personas. Cuando finalmente le llegó su hora, la Muerte tocó al capitán y éste se convirtió en la roca que podemos ver hoy en día. Justo al lado de la playa de Isuntza, la bonita playa de Karraspio, ya en la localidad de Mendexa, es un buen lugar para iniciarse en el surf.
Con unas vistas espectaculares del Cantábrico, el faro de Santa Catalina, uno de los cuatro que alumbran la costa de Bizkaia, es otro de los imprescindibles para empaparse del espíritu marinero de Lekeitio. Inaugurado en 1862, aún alumbra el camino de las embarcaciones que vuelven a puerto, y es el único faro visitable de Euskadi, ya que acoge el Centro de Interpretación de la Tecnología de la Navegación, un lugar en que se explica de manera sencilla cómo eran las técnicas, los útiles de navegación y las condiciones de vida de los arrantzales, los balleneros y las personas que surcaron los mares desde la antigüedad.
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